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Roofing 101 - National Roofing Contractors Association
The National Roofing Contractors Association
(NRCA) is pleased to provide you with this information as
part of our ongoing effort to educate home and building owners
about roofing and roofing contractors.
We hope this information will make you a more knowledgeable
consumer and, when the time comes, a smart roof system buyer.
A new roof system is a big investment. We want to help you
get a quality roof system at a fair price from a professional
roofing contractor.
William A. Good, CAE
Executive Vice President
National Roofing Contractors Association
Roof system components
All steep-slope roof systems (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25
percent or more) have five basic components:
- Roof covering: shingles,
tile, slate or metal and underlayment that protect the
sheathing from weather.
- Sheathing: boards
or sheet material that are fastened to roof rafters to
cover a house or building.
- Roof structure: rafters
and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.
- Flashing: sheet metal
or other material installed into a roof system's various
joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.
- Drainage: a roof
system's design features, such as shape, slope and layout
that affect its ability to shed water.
Choosing a roof system

There are a number of things to consider when selecting a
new roof system. Of course, cost and durability head the list,
but aesthetics and architectural style are important, too.
The right roof system for your home or building is one that
balances these five considerations. The following roofing
products commonly are used for steep-slope structures.
Asphalt shingles possess an overwhelming
share of the U.S. steep-slope roofing market and can be reinforced
with organic or fiberglass materials. Although asphalt shingles
reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer,
fiberglass-reinforced products now dominate the market.
- Organic
shingles consist of a cellulose-fiber (i.e., wood)
base that is saturated with asphalt and coated with colored
mineral granules.
- Fiberglass
shingles consist of a fiberglass mat, top-and-bottom
layers of asphalt, and mineral granules.
Asphalt shingles' fire resistances,
like most other roofing materials, are categorized by Class
A, B or C. Class A signifies the most fire-resistant; Classes
B and C denote less fire resistance. Generally, most fiberglass
shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles
have Class C ratings.
A shingle's reinforcement has little effect on its appearance.
Organic and fiberglass products are available in laminated
(architectural) grades that offer a textured appearance. Zinc
or copper-coated ceramic granules also can be applied to organic
or fiberglass products to protect against algae attack, a
common problem in warm, humid parts of the United States.
Both types of shingles also are available in a variety of
colors.
Regardless of their reinforcing type and appearance, asphalt
shingles' physical characteristics vary significantly. When
installing asphalt shingles, NRCA recommends use of shingles
that comply with American Society for Testing and Materials
(ASTM) standards-ASTM D 225 for organic shingles and ASTM
D 3462 for fiberglass shingles. These standards govern the
composition and physical properties of asphalt shingles; not
all asphalt shingles on the market comply with these standards.
If a shingle product complies with one of these standards,
it is typically noted in the manufacturer's product literature
and on the package wrapper.
Wood shingles
and shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern
pine and other woods; their natural look is popular in California,
the Northwest and parts of the Midwest. Wood shingles are
machinesawn; shakes are handmade and rougher looking. A point
to consider: Some local building codes limit the use of wood
shingles and shakes because of concerns about fire resistance.
Many wood shingles and shakes only have Class C fire ratings
or no ratings at all. However, Class A fire ratings are available
for certain wood shingle products that incorporate a factory-applied,
fire-resistant treatment.
Tile —clay or concrete—is
a durable roofing material. Mission and Spanish-style round-topped
tiles are used widely in the Southwest and Florida, and flat
styles also are available to create French and English looks.
Tile is available in a variety of colors and finishes. Tile
is heavy. If you are replacing another type of roof system
with tile, you will need to verify that the structure can
support the load.
Slate is quarried in
the United States in Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia.
It is available in different colors and grades, depending
on its origin. Considered virtually indestructible, it is,
however, more expensive than other roofing materials. In addition,
its application requires special skill and experience. Many
old homes, especially in the Northeast, still are protected
by this long-lasting roofing material.
Metal , primarily thought
of as a low-slope roofing material, has been found to be a
roofing alternative for home and building owners with steep-slope
roofs. There are two types of metal roofing products: panels
and shingles. Numerous metal panel shapes and configurations
exist. Metal shingles typically are intended to simulate traditional
roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles and tile. Apart
from metal roofing's longevity, metal shingles are relatively
lightweight, have a greater resistance to adverse weather
and can be aesthetically pleasing. Some have Class A fire
ratings.
Synthetic roofing products simulate various traditional roof
coverings, such as slate and wood shingles and shakes. However,
they do not necessarily have the same properties.
Before making a buying decision, NRCA recommends that you
look at full-size samples of a proposed product, as well as
manufacturers' brochures. It also is a good idea to visit
a building that is roofed with a particular product.
Ventilation and insulation are key
One of the most critical factors in roof system durability
is proper ventilation. Without it, heat and moisture build
up in an attic area and combine to cause rafters and sheathing
to rot, shingles to buckle, and insulation to lose its effectiveness.
Therefore, it is important never to block off sources of roof
ventilation, such as louvers, ridge vents or soffit vents,
even in winter. Proper attic ventilation will help prevent
structural damage caused by moisture, increase roofing material
life, reduce energy consumption and enhance the comfort level
of the rooms below the attic.
In addition to the free flow of air, insulation plays a key
role in proper attic ventilation. An ideal attic has:
- A gap-free layer of insulation on
the attic floor to protect the house below from heat gain
or loss.
- A vapor retarder under the insulation
and next to the ceiling to stop moisture from rising into
the attic.
- Enough open, vented spaces to allow
air to pass in and out freely.
- A minimum of 1 inch between the insulation
and roof sheathing.
The requirements for proper attic ventilation
may vary greatly, depending on the part of the United States
in which a home or building is located, as well as the structure's
conditions, such as exposure to the sun, shade and atmospheric
humidity. Nevertheless, the general ventilation formula is
based on the length and width of the attic. NRCA recommends
a minimum of 1 square foot of free vent area for each 150
square feet of attic floor—with vents placed proportionately
at the eaves (e.g., soffits) and at or near the ridge.
Even roofs have enemies
A roof system's performance is affected by numerous factors.
Knowing about the following will help you make informed roof
system buying decisions:
- Sun: Heat and ultraviolet
rays cause roofing materials to deteriorate over time.
Deterioration can occur faster on the sides facing west
or south.
- Rain: When water
gets underneath shingles, shakes or other roofing materials,
it can work its way to the roof deck and cause the roof
structure to rot. Extra moisture encourages mildew and
rot elsewhere in a house, including walls, ceilings, insulation
and electrical systems.
- Wind: High winds
can lift shingles' edges (or other roofing materials)
and force water and debris underneath them. Extremely
high winds can cause extensive damage.
- Snow and ice: Melting
snow often refreezes at a roof's overhang where the surface
is cooler, forming an ice dam. This blocks proper drainage
into the gutter. Water backs up under the shingles (or
other roofing materials) and seeps into the interior.
During the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can
be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair
or even torn off a house or building.
- Condensation: Condensation
can result from the buildup of relatively warm, moisture-laden
air. Moisture in a poorly ventilated attic promotes decay
of wood sheathing and rafters, possibly destroying a roof
structure. Sufficient attic ventilation can be achieved
by installing larger or additional vents and will help
alleviate problems because the attic air temperature will
be closer to the outside air temperature.
- Moss and algae: Moss
can grow on moist wood shingles and shakes. Once it grows,
moss holds even more moisture to a roof system's surface,
causing rot. In addition, moss roots also can work their
way into a wood deck and structure. Algae also grows in
damp, shaded areas on wood or asphalt shingle roof systems.
Besides creating a black-green stain, algae can retain
moisture, causing rot and deterioration. Trees and bushes
should be trimmed away from homes and buildings to eliminate
damp, shaded areas, and gutters should be kept clean to
ensure good drainage.
- Trees and leaves: Tree branches touching a roof will scratch and gouge roofing
materials when the branches are blown by the wind. Falling
branches from overhanging trees can damage, or even puncture,
shingles and other roofing materials. Leaves on a roof
system's surface retain moisture and cause rot, and leaves
in the gutters block drainage.
- Missing or torn shingles: The key to a roof system's effectiveness is complete protection.
When shingles are missing or torn off, a roof structure
and home or building interior are vulnerable to water
damage and rot. The problem is likely to spread-nearby
shingles also are ripped easily or blown away. Missing
or torn shingles should be replaced as soon as possible.
- Shingle deterioration: When shingles are old and worn out, they curl, split and
lose their waterproofing effectiveness. Weakened shingles
easily are blown off, torn or lifted by wind gusts. The
end result is structural rot and interior damage. A deteriorated
roof system only gets worse with time-it should be replaced
as soon as possible.
- Flashing deterioration: Many apparent roof leaks really are flashing leaks. Without
good, tight flashings around chimneys, vents, skylights
and wall/roof junctions, water can enter a home or building
and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical
systems. Flashings should be checked as part of a biannual
roof inspection and gutter cleaning.
Choosing
a contractor
Buying a new roof system is an important investment. Before
you spend your money, spend time learning how to evaluate
roofing contractors. You should insist on working with a professional
roofing contractor. NRCA wants to assist you in getting the
kind of results you expect—a quality roof system at a
fair price. All roofing contractors are not alike, and NRCA
recommends that you prequalify roofing contractors to get
the job done right the first time. The following guidelines
will help you select a professional:
- Check for a permanent place of business,
telephone number, tax identification number and, where
applicable, a business license.
- Don't hesitate to ask a roofing contractor
for proof of insurance. In fact, insist on seeing copies
of his liability coverage and workers' compensation certificates.
(U.S. workers' compensation laws vary by state. Consult
your state's laws to determine workers' compensation insurance
requirements.) Make sure the coverages are in effect through
the duration of the job. Many building and home owners
have been dragged into litigation involving uninsured
roofing contractors. Also, if a contractor is not properly
insured, you may be liable for accidents that occur on
your property.
- Check to see if the roofing contractor
is properly licensed or bonded. Some states have specific
licensing requirements, and others do not. Your state's
Department of Professional Regulation or Licensing Board
will have this information.
- Make sure the contractor is financially
stable. A professional roofing contractor can provide
current financial information about his company.
- Look for a company with a proven track
record that offers client references and a list of completed
projects. Call these clients to find out whether they
were satisfied.
- Insist on a detailed, written proposal
and examine it for complete descriptions of the work and
specifications, including approximate starting and completion
dates and payment procedures.
- Have the contractor list the roofing
manufacturers with which his firm is a licensed or approved
applicator. Most roof systems require special application
expertise to achieve lasting quality.
- Have the contractor explain his project
supervision and quality-control procedures. Request the
name of the person who will be in charge of your project,
how many workers will be required and estimated completion
time.
- Check to see if the contractor is
a member of any regional or national industry associations,
such as NRCA. Being a member of industry associations
demonstrates a commitment to professionalism.
- Call your local Better Business Bureau
or Department of Professional Regulation to check for
possible complaints filed against the contractor.
- Carefully read and understand any
roofing warranties offered, and watch for provisions that
would void it.
- Choose a company committed to worker
safety and education. Ask the contractor what type of
safety training he provides for his workers and what industry
education programs they have attended. The best roofing
contractor is only as good as the workers who install
the roof system.
- Keep a healthy skepticism about the
lowest bid. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably
is. Many fly-by-night contractors' below-cost bids seem
attractive, but these contractors often are uninsured
and perform substandard work. Remember, price is only
one of the criteria for selecting a roofing contractor.
Professionalism, experience and quality workmanship also
should weigh heavily in your decision.
Commonly
asked questions
Q: How
can a home owner recognize when a roof system has problems?
A: All too often, roof system problems are
discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic
(twice-a-year) inspections often can uncover cracked, warped
or missing shingles; loose seams and deteriorated flashings;
excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or
downspouts; and other visible signs of roof system problems.
Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard and
peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
Q: What
are my options if I decide to reroof?
A: You have two basic options: You can choose
a complete replacement of the roof system, involving a tear-off
of your existing roof system, or re-cover the existing roof
system, involving only the installation of a new roof system.
If you've already had one re-cover installed on your original
roof system, check with a professional roofing contractor.
In many instances, building code requirements allow no more
than one roof system re-cover before a complete replacement
is necessary.
Q: My
roof leaks. Do I need to have it replaced completely?
A: Not necessarily. Leaks can result from
flashings that have come loose or a section of the roof system
being damaged. A complete roof system failure, however, generally
is irreversible and a result of improper installation or choice
of materials or the roof system installation is inappropriate
for the home or building.
Q: Can
I do the work myself?
A: Most work should not be done yourself.
Professional roofing contractors are trained to safely and
efficiently repair or replace roof systems. You can damage
your roof system by using improper roofing techniques and
severely injure yourself by falling off or through the roof.
Maintenance performed by home and building owners should be
confined to inspecting roof systems during the fall and spring
to check for cracked or curling shingles and cleaning gutters
filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must inspect
your roof system yourself, use a firmly braced or tied-off
ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled
shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof system), if
possible.
Q: How
long can I expect my roof system to last?
A: Most new roof systems are designed to
provide useful service for about 20 years. Some roof system
types, such as slate, clay tile and certain metal (e.g., copper)
systems, can last longer.
Actual roof system life span is determined by a number of
factors, including local climatic and environmental conditions,
proper building and roof system design, material quality and
suitability, proper application and adequate roof maintenance.
Roofing product manufacturers offer a variety of warranties
on their products. Take a close look at those warranties to
see what responsibilities and financial obligations manufacturers
will assume if their products fail to reach their expected
lives.
Q: What
will a new roof system cost?
A: The price of a new roof system varies
widely, depending on such things as the materials selected,
contractor doing the work, home or building, location of the
home or building, local labor rates and time of year. To get
a good idea of price for your roof system, get three or four
proposals from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in
mind that price is only one factor, and it must be balanced
with the quality of the materials and workmanship.
For each roofing material, there are different grades and
corresponding prices. There also are a variety of styles and
shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make
a choice based on your budget and needs.
Within the roofing profession, there are different levels
of expertise and craftsmanship. Insist on a contractor who
is committed to quality work.
Q: How
can I determine my annual roofing cost?
A: When considering your roofing options,
the following formula may help:
Total Cost (Materials and Labor) ÷ Life Expectancy
of Roof System (in years) = Annual Roofing Cost
Terms you should know
Deck/sheathing: The
surface, usually plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), to
which roofing materials are applied.
Dormer: A small structure
projecting from a sloped roof, usually with a window.
Drip edge: An L-shaped
strip (usually metal) installed along roof edges to allow
water run off to drip clear of the deck, eaves and siding.

Eave: The horizontal
lower edge of a sloped roof.
Fascia: A flat board,
band or face located at a cornice's outer edge.
Felt/underlayment: A sheet of asphalt-saturated material (often called tar paper)
used as a secondary layer of protection for the roof deck.
Fire rating: System
for classifying the fire resistances of various materials.
Roofing materials are rated Class A, B or C, with Class A
materials having the highest resistance to fire originating
outside the structure.

Flashing: Pieces of
metal used to prevent the seepage of water around any intersection
or projection in a roof system, such as vent pipes, chimneys,
valleys and joints at vertical walls.
Louvers: Slatted devices
installed in a gable or soffit (the underside of eaves) to
ventilate the space below a roof deck and equalize air temperature
and moisture.

Oriented strand board (OSB): Roof deck panels (4 by 8 feet) made of narrow bits
of wood, installed lengthwise and crosswise in layers, and
held together with a resin glue. OSB often is used as a substitute
for plywood sheets.
Penetrations: Vents,
pipes, stacks, chimneys-anything that penetrates a roof deck.

Rafters: The supporting framing to which
a roof deck is attached.

Rake: The inclined edge of a roof over a
wall.
Ridge: The top edge
of two intersecting sloping roof surfaces.
Sheathing: The boards
or sheet materials that are fastened to rafters to cover a
house or building.
Slope: Measured by rise in inches for each 12 inches of
horizontal run: A roof with a 4-in-12 slope rises 4 inches
for every foot of horizontal distance.
Square: The common measurement for roof area. One square is 100 square
feet (10 by 10 feet).
Truss: Engineered components
that supplement rafters in many newer homes and buildings.
Trusses are designed for specific applications and cannot
be cut or altered. 
Valley: The angle formed
at the intersection of two sloping roof surfaces.
Vapor retarder: A material
designed to restrict the passage of water vapor through a
roof system or wall.
SOURCES OF ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
American Society of Home Inspectors
932 Lee Street, Suite 101
Des Plaines, IL 60016
(847) 759-2820
Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association
CenterPark
4041 Powder Mill Road, Suite 404
Calverton, MD 20705
(301) 231-9050
Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau
P.O. Box 1178
Sumas, WA 98295-1178
(604) 462-8961
Metal Construction Association
104 S. Michigan Ave., Suite 1500
Chicago, IL 60603
(312) 201-0101
National Association of Home Builders
1201 15th St. N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20005
(202) 822-0200
National Association of the Remodeling Industry
4900 Seminary Road, Suite 320
Arlington, VA 22203
(703) 276-7600
National Tile Roofing Manufacturers Association
P.O. Box 40337
Eugene, OR 97404-0049
(541) 689-0366
NRCA PUBLICATIONS/SERVICES
NRCA Consumer Advisory Bulletins
- Roofing
warranties discusses the importance of selecting
a roof system based on a product's qualities and suitability,
in addition to its warranty.
- Maintenance:
The Key to Long-Term Roof Performance addresses
the benefits of having formal, long-term maintenance agreements
with professional roofing contractors.
Roofing Qualification Statement as suggested by NRCA is a form home and building
owners should ask prospective roofing contractors to complete
and submit with proposals. The form asks for information about
contractors' companies, work in progress, references, finances
and insurance.
The NRCA Asphalt Shingle Manual presents
guidelines for asphalt shingle roofing. It addresses application
techniques, construction details, general requirements and
precautions.
The NRCA Steep Roofing Manual presents guidelines
for steep-slope roofing, including asphalt shingles, wood
shakes and shingles, slate, and clay and concrete tile. It
addresses application techniques, construction details, general
roofing requirements and precautions.
The NRCA Steep-Slope Roofing Materials Guide is a comprehensive, 230-page report about steep-slope products,
including asphalt shingles, fiber-cement roof components,
metal roof components, clay tile, concrete tile, slate and
synthetic roof components. It contains detailed descriptions,
comparative data, manufacturer-reported wind and fire ratings,
and code approvals.
For a free NRCA catalog of publications and audiovisual programs
or to purchase any of these publications, visit NRCA's
Virtual Store or contact NRCA's Infoexpress customer
service team at (866) ASK-NRCA (275-6722) or e-mail at infoexpress@nrca.net .
(800) USA-ROOF is a service offered by NRCA
to help home and building owners locate professional roofing
contractors in specific geographic areas. Owners are sent,
free of charge, a computerized list of NRCA-contractor members
sorted by zip code, a listing of local and regional NRCA affiliate
organizations, and information that describes common roof
systems and general roofing terminology. To receive this information,
home and building owners should call 1 (800) USA-ROOF. Please
allow at least two weeks for delivery.
Lists of NRCA-contractor members in specific geographic areas,
can be obtained from NRCA's online " Membership
directory ". Contractors can be selected by state, area
code or zip code.
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